Progress of a sort

[cupcake_goth]

Today, I tried making a princess-seamed full skirted dress. It went ... okay.



I used McCall M9456, and made it out of some faintly stretchy black polyester that I found for cheap at my local Hancock's. It went together pretty easily; I started at about 5:30, and it's done except for sleeves and a hem (and that included stopping to, y'know, have dinner). Why am I not feverishly sewing the sleeves right now? Because while I think the body turned out okay, I don't know if I'm actually going to wear it, so I'm not bothering with sleeves until I decide.

The side front seams that curve around my bust puckered slightly; less so than other times I've attempted princess seams, but still enough to make me less-than-pleased with the results. Also, the dress turned out about 4-5 inches too big in the waist, and about 1-2 inches too big through the bust. Huh, I guess I should have bought the size 12/14/16 pattern instead of the 18/20/22. I foolishly went by the measurements listed on the back of the pattern, but didn't look at the "finished garment measurement" line. Now I know.

All in all, the project went okay. I may start looking for vintage-style patterns where the bodice and waist are shaped with darts, instead of princess seams. Because I realized today that while I really like princess seams, the silhouette I'm looking for (hourglass, with a very full skirt) can be achieved in other dress styles, and maybe those styles might be easier to make work.

Comments

[angldst.livejournal.com]

*loves on you*. I'm proud of you for working onnit! I sewed princess seams today, too! And yesterday, and probably a buncha other days, too! hee. Sorry, pardon me, my brain is fried by production. It is refreshing to me to read this, though. I got to go take a quick looksee at those new Vogue patterns today when I was at the fabric store grabbing elastic and ribbon for one of my fashion show outfits, though...I can't wait til they go on sale! SOOOOO pretty, that one with the inverted pleats, I SO would like to make that for you, sweetie!

-d, overly chatty on her brief break to eat pudding before chaining herself back to the sewing machine.....

[sistawendy.livejournal.com]

I've learned the hard way to make a muslin, at least for the bodice.

[cupcake-goth.livejournal.com]

Well, the whole project was sort of a muslin. I went into it assuming I wasn't going to get a wearable dress out of it, which is why I used the $2/yard fabric for it.

[mahariel.livejournal.com]

That type of shaping is always tricky, as it can either hug the curves or hang like a shapeless sack. Using a stretchy material, as you did, helps, the stretchier the better, to give you a clingier dress.

-Victoria

[cherryheavy.livejournal.com]

re: the side front seams

did you iron your seams out? That should reduce some of the puckering.

Fashion pattern sizes are not the same as clothing sizes- you need to measure each part of your body, your bust/chest, waist and hips. They will all be different size numbers. For instance, I have a friend who's hips are a size 14, but her chest is a size 20.

It is also difficult to get an accurate measurement if you do it yourself- having a friend help you while you stand straight and comfortably will give you the best results.

I'm going to go through my patterns- I think I might have something in your size range that you would like.

[martygreene.livejournal.com]

ayup, commercial patterns have 'fitting ease' worked into them. There is usually a list of finished garment sizes on one or two of the pattern pieces though, which is what to really go by. Also, pattern sizes are not analagous to regular clothing sizes. Don't ask me why, they just aren't

[mahariel.livejournal.com]

I think it's because they're more analogous to what sizes used to be before clothing manufacturers started dinking around with them to make ladies feel better because they were nominally wearing a smaller number size.

-Victoria

By the way

[mahariel.livejournal.com]

I just found this class listing in my mailer from Pacific Fabrics:

Copy Your Favorite Garment
Everyone has a special item of clothing that fits perfectly, looks great, or has timeless style. Maybe it's just comfortable or makes you look thinner than you really are. Learn how to copy that pattern with techniques demonstrated by a qualified professional. Now you never have to throw that favorite garment away. Taught by Trish Jens at Northgate. $15.00 class fee. Sunday, 7/16

Re: By the way

[cupcake-goth.livejournal.com]

Ooooh. That's tempting.

[trystbat.livejournal.com]

Give the fitting another shot -- turn it inside out & put it on & have a friend pin the seams to fit better. Mark where it's pinned, take it off, & sew those lines. I second the tip about pressing the seams open, but first clip notches out of the curves, which should help it lie flatter, no puckering.

I tend to find darts more of a pain to sew than princess seams. The placement of darts has to be well customized to yr figure -- may need to move them up or down, in addition to changing the width of the dart. But, like w/any pattern, once you fiddle w/the muslin, you can make it up in as many fabrics as you like & change the length, neckline, & sleeves for lots of cool variations. Good luck & have fun!

Sorry to just barge..

[selina-k.livejournal.com]

Jilli, Hi. You don't know me, but I read both Gothic Miss Manners and Dress a day.

I sign my posts Cambric Tea, and I guess if you ever go to patternreview.com that is also the name under which I review.

I just wanted to share an observation about fit.
The McCall's pattern you chose is meant to be loosefitting, and if I am not mistaken that is why there is no zipper closure?
From the sound of your result, it sounds like you got the fit that the pattern was drafted for.

As fabulous as you are, the pattern draft itself is sort of "fundie homeschool/modest dress." It has a LOT of ease drafted in, and I can only speak for myself, but the more I scoop out excess ease from underneath my bust-which is my slimmest part-the more slender and tall I appear to be.
Loose fitting dresses on me? Murder.

This is how I choose my pattern size:

My measurements are

High Bust 36
Full Bust 40
Waist 30
Hips 40

I use a size 14 pattern to fit my high bust, and to get a good fit in the shoulder and neck.
But then how do I adjust for a D cup, full stomach and hips?

I do a full bust adjustment using the slash and spread method.

http://sewing.patternreview.com/cgi-bin/sewingclasses/board.pl?t=9531

This link will take you through all the steps that you need to go through to do a full bust adjustment, if your full bust measurement is more than 2" over your high bust measurement.

(In other words, patterns are drafted for a high "B" cup. All the rest of us must adjust!)

Fitting and construction are two separate skill sets, I think I actually know more about fitting than I do construction, but I geek out pretty hard on each.

Hope you don't mind my unsolicited advice, it is very hard to keep quiet about sewing!

Re: Sorry to just barge..

[cupcake-goth.livejournal.com]

No, I don't mind at all! This is the sort of information that I need. :)

The next pattern I'm thinking of tackling is Kwik Sew #3213 (http://www.kwiksew.com/Cold_Fusion/catalog/Frame_New.cfm). It looks like the right shape and skirt style, but I'm worried it'll drive me mad with all the pieces.

but the more I scoop out excess ease from underneath my bust-which is my slimmest part-the more slender and tall I appear to be

Yes, exactly. Plus, I'm planning on wearing them with knee-length fluffy petticoats, so a close fit through my underbust & waist is kind of essential.

Thank you again for the info!

Re: Sorry to just barge..

[selina-k.livejournal.com]

You're in good hands with Kwiksew instructions. They are the best.
Your panels won't give you too many fits, you only have one more seam than the McCall's. You're gold.

I will say that Kwik-sew is drafted large in the upper chest. Not the bust, but the upper chest. Please do not be discouraged if you find this to be the case! If you are a muslin maker-fold out the excess fabric from the muslin to suit you-if for instance you need to take out some vertical ease above the bust-and transfer the alteration to your pattern. Or if you are a little short above the armhole, you can fold out horizontally.

I recommend highly Neue Mode and Burda for fit, and style, but..their instructions lose a bit from translation.

http://www.thesewingplace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=549


Because the German patterns are graded in such small increments, i.e. Euro sizes 30-52 in some patterns, and include exhaustive measurement charts, you can actually trace from one size to another WITHOUT having to slash in spread.

With American patterns, with their .5 inch or 1 between sizes we can't do that with them.

Score another point for German draftsmanship and engineering!

Good luck and good sewing! (: